6 January 2013

FO: Grainline Moss skirt

Hello hello!

First FO of 2013! But before we get too excited, this is just a (wearable) muslin - I wanted to practise the front fly zipper insertion and check fit before I made it up again in some nicer fabric. And I wanted a version that I could test drive, so I used some passable (but cheapo) denim. There are some fitting issues that I need to sort out (and I'd really appreciate any thoughts/ideas you might have).
(yikes - don't know why I look so cross! Perhaps because it's cold and grey and rainy. again.)
Look  - the curly yellow scarf in action!

(ps, a lot of the creasing you see is because of the cheapo denim and the fact that I was sitting in the car for a bit, before the photos)


So let's discuss the pattern before I talk about my fitting issues.

This is the Grainline Moss Mini skirt. I made View B (with the hem band), and added about 3.5" length to the skirt for a slightly longer version (next time, I'll take some of this added length off). For reference, I'm 5'10" tall, and my measurements are W 26.5", H 40.5". I had to merge sizes 6 - 10. The skirt sits below the natural waist.

What do I like about this pattern? 

I love this kind of skirt - I'm often drawn to similar RTW versions but have never found one that fits: if it fits around the hips and bum, it's usually too big around the waist. The Moss Mini is really well designed and comes together very quickly (if you don't put your zipper in the wrong way around, and don't get distracted by Xmas). This is my first attempt at the fly front zipper, and it really isn't difficult (especially if you follow the great tutorial by Jen at Grainline).

Fitting woes



The front of the pocket gapes a bit - it isn't too much of a problem, but if I could fix that, I'd like to!  Any ideas?

Also, the skirt is a tad too snug around the hips, and if you look at the side seam above, it doesn't hang perpendicular to the ground - it curves slightly forward. This, according to my fitting reference books, is due to "full thighs": ease intended for the back of the garment, is borrowed by the front, so the side seams swing forward (Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina). So I need to add some more ease to the front skirt pieces. Perhaps starting just above the blue arrow. What do you think?

And while the waistband fits quite comfortably, there is a bit of extra room in the tummy area - quite handy for big lunches and food-babies, but I'd quite like to reduce that slightly. I have no idea how to do this because of the pockets and fly front zipper, so would really appreciate your thoughts.

And to the back:
*warning: rear view close-up!*

Truthfully, the wrinkle isn't quite as bad as that  - I pinched it out so that you could see how much extra fabric is involved in the wrinkle. I think that this can mean only one thing: sway back adjustment. Do I just pinch that excess out of the pattern piece itself?  And what about all the other wrinkles? Are they because of the full thighs borrowing ease?

So there you have it. It needs work, which I'm willing to invest because this is a great skirt, which can take you through the seasons in different fabrics.


So please help! and I promise not to look so cross in other photos.

speak soon!
x

22 comments:

  1. I don't think we can look cross about the cold - it is January - but the rainy is getting a bit much now, isn't it? In fact, I think it went past 'much' a while back... I'm rubbish at pattern adjustments but I'm inclined to think that if you sorted out the hip snugness, the back might fit better and the pockets might sit flatter. Totally uneducated guess, that. How helpful. :-)

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    1. I think you're right - thank you!

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  2. You don't look angry, you've got the classic "did you take the picture" look...

    As to the fit, it is pretty close. The hip is too snug and you could easily add 3/8" to the side seams - if it's a multi size pattern tissue just redraw the curve from the waist that fits well down to the next size hip. Or just add whatever you amount you determine to the side seams and redraw the curve. Easy.

    The pocket thing is so freaking annoying! I've interfaced the tops of the pocket openings (say 1" strip of interfacing at the pocket edge). I also learned in fashion school that you can cut a piece of narrow twill tape very slightly smaller than the pocket opening and sew it at the seamline of the pocket. Then it can't stretch too far.

    I don't know why the button is pooching, maybe it's too small or the placement. I'd definitely pinch out the excess in that back yoke piece, but I'd add length to the back skirt piece and I always hem my back skirts longer in the back (because I've got bootay) so they hang straight.

    Good luck! You're so close to a great skirt.

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    1. Thanks so much for the tips. I think I'll start by addressing the fit around the hips most (and pray that everything else is sorted out as a result!)

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  3. This is such a cute style for you! OK, I'm with Nina-- I think the pockets are gaping a bit because the skirt is pulling forward. Does that make sense? I think I would do a slash & spread adjustment to the skirt front piece (using the principles from this Colette tutorial: http://www.coletterie.com/sewalongs/clover-sewalong-wide-or-narrow-hip-adjustments), then I would lay the pocket pieces on top of the adjusted skirt front and slash & spread them all the same way. If you're unsure how much to add, I would measure how off the side seam is at the widest part from where it should lie, then add in a little wearing ease. I would alter the piece closer to the side seam/hip line so that the fly area is left untouched. Good luck! You're right-- this is such a great skirt that it's worthwhile to adjust it until it fits. :)

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    1. this is so useful - thanks! I'd never heard of a wide hip adjustment! I have a lot of homework to do!

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  4. Oh, and here's a good link that explains how to deal with a swayback issue (as well as showing a few other fit issues that are often confused with swayback): http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html

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    1. thank you so much for this link! I'm printing this off to add to my fitting books - so handy!

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  5. So many good suggestions already! I'm inclined to agree with previous posters - you need to sort out the hip area first and see how that affects the other issues. If the skirt is too snug around the hips, it could be riding up slightly which might be adding to the pocket issues and the back wrinkle. And definitely try interfacing the top of the pocket as redsilvia suggests - since its on the bias it can stretch out so easily. That said, it is a great shape on you and I think there is only a little tweaking needed to get it perfect.

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    1. thanks Helen. I see what you mean about the "riding up" - the second link Ginger suggested above has a similar solution for an apparent sway-back, so I think I have to concentrate on the hip ease. :)

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  6. I'm agreeing with the patterns above. I'd start with a grade between pattern sizes from a waist that fits well to the hip. I'm really loving this on you and your "no more photos, paparazzi!" look. It's rad :)

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    1. haha - yes, it was definitely a "how can you have taken so many photos and not got one right yet" moment!

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  7. I was also going to suggest sorting the hip issue to see if that fixes the back - unless a swayback is usual for you? It's great to see a longer version as I love this pattern but am a similar height to you. It's going to look great!

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  8. Although I don't have anything to add to the super useful comments above, I did want to chip in and say that you should totally persevere with this skirt! It really suits you so much! I'm really tempted by the pattern myself!

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  9. Finally, someone with a shapelier bum has tried this skirt. I've had the same problems with my skirt. I did contact Jen from Grainline and she gave me some great advice for redrawing the back pattern pieces so they would curve around my curves, but after losing a little weight I have to try again. So I'm not much help to you on that correction, but I do know that the pocket was designed to gape a bit so that it supplies more space for the hands in the pockets. From the blog: " I am not a fan of non-functional pockets so these are drafted with a bit of hand ease allowing you to actually use them!" I also think it's mentioned in the PDF instructions. Good luck!

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    1. thank you! so helpful. I hope you get the skirt adjustments to work - I'd love to see how you fix it for your shape. And thanks for the tip about the pocket - I had read that in the instructions but somehow it didn't stick! makes total sense now :)

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  10. Before you do a swayback adjustment, I would make sure you have enough fabric to go around your hips. It looks like the fabric is hanging up and making the wrinkles because there isn't enough to go around your body.

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    1. thanks Lynn - I think you might be right. I'll definitely look to sort out the hips first, and then see what (if anything) needs tweaking.

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  11. you are all awesome - thank you! x

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  12. Haha 'warning: rear view' gosh you make me laugh! I'm no good on fixing fitting issues but let me just say for a wearable muslin, this is amazing! I love that first photo of you! x

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  13. Thank you for posting this! I've learned so much reading the comments. I think the skirt is a great style on you, and I'll love to see the finished version.

    Also, I love your curly yellow scarf! It looks perfect for a bland January day.

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  14. You got really great ideas so i dont have anything to add. Im sure you will fix it and make loads of cute skirts

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